Back to Luanda!

After a great summer back home (over two months) I am now back to Angola, ready for the "second" summer of 2011... Will be hot and moist. I returned almost a month ago now, and the weather changed roughy a week ago, literally over night; one day it is nice and dry, with a cool wind blowing, the next day the sun seems to burn me and the cool wind has turned into a moist breeze like a cows breath when its mooing. And the occasional showers have already occurred, so here we come, rainy season called summer!  

I arrived to Luanda with a vengance; two consulting jobs from finnish companies and a goal to get hired before the year ends. (Not hundred percent sure about the job though; this nationalisation process is great and necessary for Angola, but crap for little foreigner me.)

But the great thing about my consulting jobs (besides the pay) is that I am getting out and about. Meeting people and more so meeting ministry people. It´s been an interesting couple of weeks! The higher the people I meet, the better their english, which makes the job easier for me. The best thing so far was when I had a meeting at the Ministry of Environment. I spoke with the head, he gave me the address and time to meet. I arrived at the Ministry, asked for him at the reception, no one knew, I showed his name card and the address which was on the second floor. They point towards the stairs, so up I go. I go to the second floor and start looking. A man sees me lost and asks who I am looking for, so I give the name-card like before. Well well, this gentleman knows who I am looking for, he literally takes my hand and walks me down the stairs to floor one, then through corridors that seem to be getting smaller and smaller until we arrive at some backdoor almost like the servants exit, and he points up the stairs. I thank him and head up, where I find the environmental department: a crammed office built into the attic and practically closed off from the rest of the departments. I guess that tells us how new and influential the environmental department is in Angola, you know, the guys discussing climate change, carbon trading and other nonsense... 

But I can honestly say I have learnt a great deal about Angola as a country in statistics and geographically, and how to go about finding information and meeting people; the most important factor being "guanxi", you simply must know someone who knows someone who'll be able to get you a mobile number. Seriously, not kidding about the mobile number, it is virtually impossible to get through to anyone, even with a name and title; you must have the mobile number. 

And finally let me share with you a photo of the really nice lady we bought coal from, her laughter was genuine, loud and contagious! 

The lovely lady selling us a bag of coal

Ilona is no longer an illegal alien in Angola

Yes, it's true! Not only am I an immigrant to Angola, but for a wee while there I was illegal! Never thought that would happen to me, a Finn, European, a Caucasian hetero female (also a bit educated) and here I am, with all major boxes ticket above, I belong to a minority! I love it! 

It was no joy ride for anyone to get my paperwork done, and I'm sure some strings, ranks and titles were pulled for help.. 

But here we have it! I have permanent residency of Angola! (for a year at a time) No more visa issues, no more paper-hell at the airports no more ducking at the backs-seat when driving past the police.. 

Angola is not very keen on giving visas, but hey, it's not like they need tourism currently.. 

In addition for my legal status, I am now also allowed to work here. Ahhhh, the plot thickens! Yes, I really can not wait to get myself to the employment arena and see the life from a totally different perspective! Since confirming my status I have in deed been in contact with some interesting companies.. Let us see how things develop! 

But let me tell you what I have been up to in my almost six months of residency in Angola. Learning Portuguese is a given! Not quite fluent, but I think I'll get my message through when needed! But also, like the good illegal alien as I was, I took up the backdoor sweatshop facilities and started sewing! Ok ok, sweatshop is a bit strong; a perfectly good sewing machine and some lovely canvases I bought at the São Paolo market. 

Some panos I just got

Canvasses with African patterns are called: Panos. Panos most often come from China, as everything else nowadays, but on occasion I see some from Nigeria as well. Panos comes in sealed packs of 5-7 meters, depending on the heaviness of the cotton. Panos are colourful and pure cotton, which makes them really ideal for this weather to wear, they breath through and are comfortable. What I love about these are the vibrant colours and how you see them on the streets. Everyday you see loads of women, mostly sellers on the streets that are wrapped in panos. I was told that one packet is sufficient enough for a wrap around the legs, wrap for the upper body and a head wrap. And these are not just to look good, most of the time women have jeans and shirts under the panos but they double as practicalities, such as the lack of toilets so the wrap around the legs you can wrap around your entire body when you need to squat by the road. The wrap on your upper body is most often used to strap a baby to the back and the head-wrap is what women use to carry their heavy loads on top of their heads for. 

Sorry for the crappy quality, taken from a moving car...

Life of an African woman is not easy.

But I do not use the panos for anything necessary, but rather for my own pleasure. 

Finally I get my own photos done: Photo by Kamene M Traça

My latest idea has been to make hats. As I am used to wearing hats, I find it a necessity here as well, with this strong sun piercing through my sunblock 100.. 

Anyhow, here are a few below and I must admit: I already managed to sell. I'll be open to investment plans, anyone anyone? I guess I need a name as well ha ha haa Kamene keeps calling me the "crazy hat-lady", as if I was mad as a hatter! 

The winter is on its way

Today was cool. Not cold, but nice and cool. Refreshing wind from the sea brushes through my hair and I feel the change in the air. 

As I am learning slowly Portuguese, I am now venturing into the vocabulary of  weather, time and the seasons. I could not help but notice that in Angola there just seems to be the following seasons: hot, hot, hot and hot. But I was wrong! There are in fact two seasons in Angola! And no, they are not "hot and hotter" as one would think, but summer and winter. 

Summer, which is during Christmas is HOT! So hot and humid that I really have had days that have been torture. So hot that when we head to the beach, I pretend to be a wicked surfer with my +40spf surfers top... What can I say, white ass roasts quickly... Here's a photo Kamene took the other day. 

Getting splashed

But soon, anytime soon now, should be here already, will be the winter. I've asked a few Angolans about this and they told me that yes, it will be cold and you must wear a jacket in the evenings! Really? The temperature will drop to a whopping +25˚c from +35˚c... Apparently the nights during the winter can drop to +17˚c. I look forward to sleeping without the air-conditioning! 

But alas, I was finally explained what the actual seasons are here in Angola: dry and wet! 

The wet season is in the summer, which is why the summer is hot and humid. The winter is starting soon, and that will be a dry season. As we are nearing to the end of summer, it feels like the rain is giving it's last bits now before the dry season kicks in.

Wet wet wet

Yesterday we spent the day at the beach in Mussulo and it was a hot lovely day, water was warm, a bit fresher than the times before and throughout the day we kept hearing kabooms in the sky! At around 16 we started heading back. The sea was flat, completely calm, eerie. And roughly 20 seconds after the waves were high and the sky was black and rain was so heavy you could hardly see where you were heading! That was one scary boat ride! 

So this is the wet season in Angola, and let me tell you, it is ridiculous! There is a "light show" in the skies almost every night followed by angry thunder with the water pissing down heavily for hours on end! Hours of heavy rain! The electricity always cuts off, so for the houses with no personal generator... Tough shit! 

The rain does its damage, the city has barely any drainage system so all streets are always flooded or cut off completely, ceilings leak and water level rises to levels that match with the sewers... (Nice aroma) And the after effects are of course that people do not go to work because the public transportation, which are funny little vans, (I'll write about those soon) do not work, the roads are cut off so walking is difficult, but the people that do need to head out, will be sitting hours in the heavier than usual traffic and there will be zero parking spaces in the city! So if you can- stay at home!

Muddy roads cut off

I'm so used to enjoying the rain at home, I always sleep really well during it cause it cools down the air and cleans it. But here, my boyfriend never sleeps during the rains, because he needs to keep checking on the boat and go out there into the dark sea to empty it before it sinks completely and he needs to keep checking the electricity and if the generator is dry or needs diesel. 

I tried snapping photos of the lightning, but we can all appreciate how difficult that is! Last week we were sitting having a drink in the city and the thunder hit so close that the floor shook under our feet and the table trembled and spilled our drinks! No, it didn't hit our car! 

I can see clearly now that the rain has gone.. 

 The wet season! 

Fun Facts

...about Angola and Angolans 

Since I don't really speak the language properly, I can't give any final opinions about Angolans, all I can say for now is that the general theme seems to be pouty, non-interested and "what do you want" looks from people. Actually, it's like Russia 10 years ago (maybe still today, haven't been lately) when the lady sitting behind the glass refuses to sell stamps to you just because she doesn't feel like it today. Main post office of St Petersburg... 

That is to say that the people on the streets do not smile at you, do not respond to your happy "hello" and when you are holding the money at a coffee shop, they act like they are doing YOU a favour... Yeah, we've all been to places like these, mostly what they have in common is the communist history. 

Having said all that, the Angolans I have been introduced to are fun, open and generous. 

Once I learn enough of the language I'll know what people are saying behind my back, so I'll get back to you on this ; )

But here's a couple of new things I have learnt: 

Thumbs up! 

So, the local way of saying "thanks" in traffic, or saying hi on the street or basically any communication with anyone, you end up with "thumbs up", but one must remember to lift up the whole elbow while doing this! 

Domingos, the driver

I like it! So simple! Effective! 

Photos of people

There reason why I haven't posted more photos is simple: people really do not like you take photos of them in Luanda! And I really mean it! If I understood what they screamed at me I would tell you, but best left unknown. So, instead of whipping out my big SLR, I am now trying to figure out how to get my crappy camera on my phone to work. A good reason to invest into an iPhone. Anyone? Anyone? Anyway, I was told people get agitated and want huge amounts of money if you take a photo, lets say, of a building that they happen to be standing in front of, because they know the photo will be on internet soon. But they don't know what internet is. So, again, it comes down to money... 

Electricity

And the lack of it. So, you might be in a restaurant, a shop, someone's house, wherever really when the electricity goes off. Everything goes black, aircon stops and people do not even blink nor change the subject. It's so normal. Electricity comes and goes. If you have your own generator you'll switch it on and everything goes back again. However, if you live in a cheaper accommodation in the city for instance and have no generator, cause they are not cheap, you might be without electricity for days! My boyfriends house has a generator, but I guess I am too new to all this because I actually gasp every single time the power cuts off! Kind of like when you are new to China and still notice things like people hawk-spitting in the street, that after a while you don't even notice.. 

Local landline

So, doesn't matter how prestigious, well-known or international the company is, no one ever picks up the landline number listed publicly. Never. We are talking about ministry numbers, foreign oil companies, diamond companies, ngo's etc. Unless you get a mobile number- forget it! No one will pick up your call! 

(I hope someone with an office in Angola reads this and will do something about this!) 

Moon rings 

I have never in my life seen this before: moon rings! Beautiful phenomenon! Actually, I had never even heard of it before, but there we have it! I have seen moon rings! Only once tough. I wanted to take photos, so I've been hunting for them ever since, but with no luck. I did search info about them, here's a small info package about them: 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moon_ring 

Dust 

Hmmm, after living in Beijing for so long, one would think a little dust is nothing, but this is something else... If you mix together the fine sand from the desert, pollution from the traffic and dust from the building-site called Luanda; you get this dirty air that goes everywhere- including your eyes! Since arrival I have had an eye infection six times already! No joke, always with sun glasses, windows of the car rolled up but none the less it gets everywhere! 

And now to my favourite subject: bugs under the skin! 

Look at the picture!!! That is MY finger with something inside laying eggs! apparently, it is too tiny for me to see, even when I popped it to squeeze it out and disinfect it! Eeeeeeeewww! Nasty! Also scary as an idea: bug laying eggs under your skin, all warm and cosy and when ready it will open up and millions and millions of baby bugs will sprawl about! 

My finger inhabited by new friends

I have no idea where it came from, probably beach somewhere, also I should note here that apparently it is not a big deal, it happens all the time, it's not dangerous and like my boyfriend's mom said when I finally understood it's not a splinter but a living thing (and started freaking out): "Ilona, relax, it's a bug, not a lion!" 

(must add that I managed to refrain myself from crying out that the most deadly animals are viruses that are so small that we can't even see them!) 

So there, I'll try to find out some fun facts like how many people die in Angola by falling coconuts and take photos of the colourful street life and voluminous women.. 

Fish Market

The Saturday morning before last, I did something new! Instead of stumbling home at 5 am, I was up and about and ready to hit the market! Honestly, it was a revelation for me: I had not been up at the crack of dawn in Angola yet, and to experience the clear air, serenity of the ocean, no noise, no heat, no blazing sun! Was amazing!

My boyfriend's dad goes to the fish market once a month to fill the freezers with fish! Excellent! We get our gear ready and head out- by boat!

It was a half an hour ride, we only saw a couple of other boats, and they were heading to the same direction; fishermen with a boat full of fish!

The beach was already quite crowded. And the smell was picking up although the fresh sea-breeze did it's best. We were greeted by a couple of guys, talking in a speed that I obviously could not keep up with, then an arrangement was made with one, and he took our cooling bags and disappeared. We started walking through all the sellers and the variety of fish and sea snakes and cuttlefish and frutti di mare was colourful buffet! We went to only certain sellers, I guess like anywhere one must establish good relationships to know who has the good stuff. So we buy fish! Loads of it! And out of nowhere the guys from the beach kept popping out and taking all our purchases. And finally when we are done, we start moving away from the crowds and there I see the guy: he was cleaning all the fish!

This was quite the pleasant surprise- throughout the buying I kept thinking: "shit, this will take us all day to clean all of this lot!"

And here's a photo of our fish-gutter as he is skinning and cleaning our cuttlefish! You know, I love squid, octopus and cuttlefish but never ever did I actually see one cleaned. I mean to get rid of the inkbags, the "spine" and rubbery skin!

And we were back before the rest of the house was even up! I must admit, Angola at 5 am was a treat. To get something done, one really needs to get up and beat the sun to it!

Daily Economics

You may join me in my surprise as I thought Angola would be an African country where you see lions and giraffes and half naked women draped in colourful canvasses carrying water on their heads while children with potbellies run naked in the sun.

What can I say, the country is divided clearly, like so many others, into capital and the rest of the country. There is Luanda and the rest of Angola. Luanda is a bustling, loud, dirty city; very clearly came into serious money before education. You know what I mean, like any South East Asian larger city; Luanda is being developed and built very quickly. You could almost compare the amount of cranes in the city's horizon into that of Beijing's horizon couple of years before the Big Games.

photo by Kamene M Traça

But unlike any other city that has quickly discovered oil or other coveted natural riches, Luanda's everyday life is no longer for the ordinary people: rent in the city starts from $3000-$9000 for a STUDIO apartment for a MONTH! Yes, we are still in Africa, and the city is Luanda, not London, you wouldn't find these prices in any major capital however posh and "the" place to be they were. And lets not forget that the electricity and water might be cut off any given time.

The expenses are visible in everything, starting from daily commodities like milk, bread- it is just plain wrong that bananas that they grow in Angola are cheaper to buy in Finland than locally...

Here's a couple of links to be gasped at like I am every time I leave the house:

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/business/8094873.stm

http://www.gadling.com/2010/07/07/luanda-angola-the-worlds-most-expensive-city-for-expats/ 

And here's a link to an article about a local shop, not too far from where I live, that priced their melon 100$/pc! Funny article: 

http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&sl=pt&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fopais.net%2Fpt%2Fopais%2F%3Fdet%3D18451%26id%3D1657%26mid%3D229

"The end of the war in 2002 led to an investment boom by China and some Western nations which has helped turn Angola into one of the world's fastest growing economies. The boom also helped push prices to record highs."

It seems that Angola was completely destroyed by the war and currently has no industry of its own. Angola doesn't really make anything and has hardly any agriculture or cattle. Oil accounts for over 96% of Angola’s total exports, whilst diamonds come a distant second with around 2%. Which basically means that Angola imports everything it needs. And this where China steps in- in the street view one can see many many Chinese companies, machinery and people. The wooden African artefacts sold at markets are made in China, the fabrics with bright colours and African prints are made in China, the carp they sell by the road is all made in China. And let me tell you- the prices are not what I would have paid for in China. Cheeky buggers. Unfortunately I don't know who I am calling cheeky here. Live and let live, right?

photo by Kamene M Traça

But expenses set aside, as soon as you leave Luanda and drive out for a couple of hours, you will see villages where women are dressed in colourful clothes and do carry water on their heads while children play outside and the earth is the colour red you have never seen! And the fruits are cheap and cheerful!

photo by Kamene M Traça

About the lions and giraffes- I'll let you know asap I visit a national park!

New year, new location and a new life!

So here we are, a couple of years later and I am back; Ilona IS in Angola!

After Xmas I took my suitcase and started my voyage towards the southern hemisphere, which I shall refer to from now on as home! I arrived in good time but in not so good shape (after several flights and airport deaths) to celebrate the beginning of the year 2011!

My boyfriend lives and works in Luanda, Angola, where hopefully I will find something groovy to do! So far I have done the following: sweating, spreading an equal amount of sun block and mosquito repellent on my body, sweating, sleeping, sweating, having several showers during the day, sweating, swimming, sweating, eating a bit, and more sweating... It is HOT! And I realise that I exchanged -23˚c into +37˚c, but never did I think it would be this difficult to get my body familiar with this heat. They say it might take a couple of weeks before I get used to it and stop sweating like a sprinkler...

But I am lying a bit, since I have done some cool things already: we went camping on the beach one weekend, to the Surfers' Beach; Cabo Ledo, where the waves are pretty high! And what we did last weekend, was to take out the boat and go to my boyfriend's family summer cottage in a place called Mussulo. Mussulo looks like an island on the coast, but is in fact a peninsula, and apparently quite the trendy place to be during the weekends. Not surprising as the water seems cleaner on that side and the waves calmer. It is perfect!

My goals for now are to learn Portuguese, experience Angola and hopefully Africa, find a great job and have fun! While doing that I will keep on writing this blog and sharing my experiences in this new culture of mine.
(Now I wish I had kept a blog in China, cause lets face it- we had some really crazy shit going on there!)

I'm off to eat cod fish! Ta taa!